Thackerays

28th November 2012- Thackerays

The spa town of Tunbridge Wells you'd think wouldn't be the quaint setting for such a powerhouse on the Kentish restaurant scene. Chef and co-proprietor Richard Phillips, fronts the restaurant, but has a small empire across Kent, with the awarding winning, 2 Rosette The Hengist in Aylesham, The Pearson's Arms in Whitstable and Richard Phillips at Chapel Down, Tenterden becoming his latest project in 2008.Offering a "modern French menu which explodes with flavour", which excited me, being an advocate of classic French dishes, but given a makeover. Thackerays itself holds 3 AA Rosettes and recently acquired a coveted Michelin star, set in a Grade II listed building, just off the main road, running through the town centre. An unassuming location, for such gastronomical prowess.

Once arriving, we were greeted by the Maitre D', no stereotypical formal, stuffy introduction, but very sleek and polite. The contemporary, minimalist interior showed style (refurbished in 2010) with a cocktail bar to the left, and the main restaurant to the right. Once ushered to our table we were greeted by a reasonably priced a la carte menu at roughly £45 per person for 3 courses, a chef's tasting menu priced at £69 per person and the more universally affordable market menu at £24.50 for two courses and £28.50 for three. However, a less affordable wine list graced our table also, with the majority of wines being on the slightly extortionate side. However, we managed to find a superb white English Wine from Chapel Down, Tenterden (2007). Using bacchus grapes, it possessed a high acidity, resembling a sauvignon blanc almost with the sharpness of gooseberries and grapefruit. At £32.00, however, it almost resembled London prices.
The market menu prove most appealing, with both of us opting for braised pig cheek. Before this, we received amuse bouche, of classic chicken liver parfait served with thinly sliced, crisp vegetables adding texture. Although, not a great fan of chicken livers, the parfait was rich, almost creamy with background tones of soft herbs, served with freshly made bread was divine. Home-marinated olives in garlic and fresh herbs accompanied the amuse bouche, which were incredibly moreish.
Swiftly after this, we received are starters. The pig cheek presented on a dramatic, black slate, glazed in the cider jus, was succulent sweet and tender. Partnered with a classic combination of butternut squash and woody sage in a puree, as well as precise, diced cubes of squash was pleasant. The oriental twist being a crisp, shredded pork spring roll adding much needed texture rounded off with more cider jus. Pretty as a picture. To follow we again both chose the same- a roast breast of Gressingham duck, pink in the middle almost melt in the mouth. With a classic white bean cassoulet, flavoured with Morteaux sausage was incredibly moreish, given a bowl of that and I would have devoured it. A poached baby pear added sweetness to cut through an incredibly rich, filling dish. Topped off with a glossy, spiced duck jus flavoured with star anise and cinnamon. A cracking dish.

As a pre-dessert, we received a cheesecake, but not as we know it. Served in a small, kilner jar with  a small layer of biscuit base at the bottom topped with a creamy, vanilla cheesecake mix. Although, normally quite heavy and stodgy, as a dessert this proved a great palette cleanser with clean, distinct flavours with a minuscule ball of strawberry sorbet on top adding freshness. Finally, for dessert, a peanut and banana shortbread sandwich took my fancy, with a banana ice cream, salted peanuts and banana compote, Meanwhile, MBH went for the caramelised carrot cake, carrot and orange sorbets and a candied carrot salad. Lacking superlatives for the banana dessert, it was a revelation and probably the most enjoyable course of the lot. Crumbly, buttery shortbread was sandwiched between a creamy, sumptuous and intensely flavoured banana ice cream with kahlua (a banana liquer) and salted peanuts. A salty, sweet combination, enhanced by a rich banana compote. Sublime. A caramelised carrot cake, although a tad on the dry side, had a natural sweetness, which combined with zingy sorbets and an intriguing long strands of candied carrot proved a unique, but successful dessert.
At this point, we were both incredibly satisfied with the meal and thought to finish the meal off petit fours and coffee were a must. This was unfortunately where the meal was slightly let down, the waiting staff forgot to mention that the coffee machine had become out of order and it took an incredible 25 minutes to receive a tea and coffee. Which made this even more disappointing was the waiter being visible to us, using instant coffee. For £3.95, this just wasn't good enough, with more informative staff we would have quite happily understood and just not opted for it. By the time they eventually came we had to leave for an hourly train, and this rushed inconvenience finished the evening on a sour note.

Overall, the restaurant showcased some intelligent cookery, pulled of with great, technical execution. The front of house, however, just slightly let down an almost perfect evening.

Rating- 8/10